Got everything put back together and running - then it started spilling oil out between the engine and transmission. Whoever threatened to shit award me if I didn't replace the Rear Main Seal while in there can eat their own peepee. I replaced it, reassembled the engine, put the engine back in the car, spent two days hooking it back up - and the rear main seal gushes like Ted_Simp when you show her your substack.
What this means is I have to remove the engine and transmission and do everything over again. My question is, is there some way to test the seal before reinstalling the engine? It sits higher in the block than the sump, so the leaks won't occur until everything is running and splashing around in there. My thought is to replace it, then hang the motor tilted face-down overnight and see if anything drips out. Just hoping that won't cause any other issues.
Previous Posts:
https://rdrama.net/h/personal/post/255934/porsche-proctology-and-why-not-to
https://rdrama.net/h/personal/post/256091/porsche-proctology-part-ii-its-out
https://rdrama.net/h/personal/post/256458/porsche-proctology-part-iii-neardisaster-and
https://rdrama.net/h/personal/post/258426/porsche-proctology-part-iv-parts-purgatory
https://rdrama.net/h/personal/post/259271/porsche-proctology-part-v-im-bored
Anyways, rewinding a bit...
I cleaned up my motor mounts and swapped out the stiff bushings for some softer ones. One guy who does a lot of research on these motors discovered that if you have too stiff of mounts you'll end up triggering the anti-knock sensors.
I love how these hose clamps come pre-cocked with a disposable holder.
Here you can see just how little clearance there is between the frame and the top of the motor when removing and installing it.
Kitty taking a break.
Watching the eclipse from under the car.
Cool eclipse shadows but no time to sit around and watch.
The articulating Bosch Flexiclick driver comes in handy spinning new fasteners in. Just wish they had an impact version. At this point I was putting the engine back in without separating the transmission and without addressing the rear main seal. Once I got it in though I discovered I'd misaligned the clutch slave cylinder and blew it out in the process. That meant removing the engine again. At that point I decided I'd tackle the clutch and rear main seal while in there.
These bell housing bolts are all different sizes, so once again it's important to mark everything.
Separating the motor and transmission.
The circle in the center is the crankshaft, surrounded by the rear main seal. Below that is the IMS bearing, which is one of the Achilles heels of this motor. While it looks like the IMS is leaking, from my inspection it seems like it's just oil dripping down from the RMS.
Cleaned up with the seal removed.
Installing the new seal (wondering what I did wrong). I picked up this tool for $100 on Amazon. The "Official" tool is like $500 from Porsche, and tons of people had just as much luck using the one I did.
New clutch friction plate. Left the old pressure plate and flywheel in since they weren't very worn at only 57k miles.
Lining these two back up again was a huge b-word.
I picked up this Motive Pressure Bleeder to do the clutch hydraulics and it made bleeding the clutch an easy, less than five minute job.
Using my hydraulic ram kit to get the transmission lined up with the chassis just right.
Sometimes extraordinary work requires extraordinary measures.
Vacuum filling the coolant. This tool removes all of the air from the cooling system and then uses the vacuum pressure created to suck the coolant into the system without any air gaps.
Brenda
I always feared this would happen with a segmented disc. Thankfully my Metabo grinder has a safety clutch.
Pounding out old rusty studs to replace with bolts.
Putting that rotator ratchet to use.
Testing crankcase pressure (it's good!)
I'm probably going to walk away from it for a week or so at this point as I'm just too frustrated to properly do everything over again.
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thank u
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Whomever "Ted_Simp" is has to leave the internet now..
Slut.
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I envy you
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ok so i did an engine/transmission swap and it was a bit different situation since it's an all mechanical diesel with a manual transmission and the only computer in the whole truck is in the radio. But I started that b-word before putting it in. Couldn't you just get in in place enough to connect all the wires and start it? worst case you just lower it down after? It was easier for me since I could just set it on some pallets and strap it down and connect the wire to activate the starter. Easy peasy. Probably way harder to even get that engine into position and making extended wires would probably cost alot and or take along time.
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The engine itself isn't too hard to put into the car (it goes in from below instead of above). The biggest b-word is getting the transmission aligned and all hooked up underneath. I think what I'll do is put the engine in without the transmission and run it for fifteen minutes, check for leaks, then pull it back out, mate it with the transmission, and put the whole assembly back in.
I just need to check with the doomsayers on Rennlist first to make sure I don't throw any codes that I can't clear with my regular code reader. The "unofficial" diagnostic software is $300 and requires a windows laptop - neither of which I have at the moment.
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Could you pressurize the system like looking for radiator leaks
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I worry that pressurizing the crankcase would damage the seal and other seals, since when it runs it's in a state of vacuum.
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That's some bad luck man. I've installed rear mains by just tapping them in with a ball pein hammer and socket, and they didn't leak. you did it properly and everything
This happened on my first build. First start it was pissing oil out of the pump. The supplier sent me an oil pump gasket with an extra hole in it and I didn't notice so I had to pull the engine out and pull it all apart again.
Time to take a break.
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